Baby Deer

In May and June, fawns are born. At that time, people often encounter baby fawns all on their own, seemingly abandoned (in their flower bed, under a tree, or on a hiking trail). This is normal. The mother deer did not abandon her offspring. Mother deer often have twins and separate them. She will "park" each baby in a spot she chooses and encourage it to stay there. Then, she'll leave for most of the day. The theory is that the babies are safer alone. A mother’s size and odor might attract predators.

The baby is conditioned to stay very still, with its white spots providing camouflage. So, if you see a baby deer alone - even a brand new, tiny newborn - let it be. Keep children and pets away. Mom will return to feed the baby at regular intervals. She may move him tomorrow, or she may keep him there.

However, if a baby deer is crying inconsolably, has feces around its rectum, or flies around it, it needs help. Call us (267) 416-9453.

Baby Raccoons, Woodchucks, Foxes and Skunks

Baby raccoons, skunks, foxes and groundhogs are rabies vector species. If you find one alone, you should not touch it until you call us (267) 416-9453.  We can usually help these animals, but transportation instructions are involved and complex. We’ll be happy to talk you through it.

Baby Opossum

I found a baby possum

Opossum mothers will usually not return for a dropped baby possum. So, if you find a baby possum on its own, and he is smaller than 9 inches (nose to butt, excluding tail) he needs to be brought to a wildlife rehabilitator. A baby opossum longer than 9 inches has left his mother and is independent. 

If you find a dead adult opossum, you can check to see if there is a pouch. There may be babies within. The pouch is located in the abdomen area.

If you see babies, DO NOT remove them from the pouch or take the nipples out of their mouths. Instead, place the whole carcass into a box, and bring it to us - we will remove the babies from the dead mother.

Baby Squirrel

I found a baby squirrel

Baby squirrels are frequently brought to us after their nest has been disturbed due to weather, tree maintenance, or because they have fallen or have been pushed out of the nest.

Only intervene in the presence of an observable injury:

OBVIOUS INJURY
1) If you see blood, flies, or the squirrel was attacked by a pet, bring it in.

-or-

NO EVIDENT INJURY
1) Place the baby(s) in a small fleece-lined container and place it next to the nearest tree.
2) Wait OUT OF SIGHT for an hour or two, then return to see if the mother retrieved the babies.
3) If the mom doesn’t return, call Philadelphia Metro Wildlife Center.

-DO NOT GIVE THE BABY SQUIRREL FOOD OR WATER. We must restore the squirrels to a stable temperature and level of hydration before they can eat. Improper feeding can cause irreversible damage.

Baby Goose (Gosling)

I found a baby gosling (or duckling)!

If you find a young baby gosling or duckling, the first thing to do is check if he is injured. If you see anything abnormal, call us (267) 416-9453. But if the baby duck or goose looks perfectly healthy, the best thing to do is place him in a safe container, like a cardboard box (with paper towel or rag on the bottom so he doesn’t slip around).

Look around for his family. All of his siblings will be the same size - that’s the best clue you have found the right family. Place the baby on the ground close to the family, and watch carefully. If he runs to the parents, and the parents to him, all should be well. Continue to watch to ensure the reunion is successful. If the parents peck the baby or try to avoid him, scoop him back up, and call us or bring him in right away.

A Cat Caught a Bird

Any animal caught by a cat requires emergency care. Gently place the bird in the towel-lined box, close the lid, and bring him in ASAP.
Even if the bird is gravely injured, bring him in so we can administer palliative care.

If the cat is yours, please consider keeping him indoors, building a “catio" or letting him outside only under close supervision. 

Bird on Lanternfly Tape or Sticky Trap

I have a bird stuck on a glue trap!

ANY ANIMAL STUCK ON A STICKY TRAP IS AN EMERGENCY.

Preparation for transfer:

1) Do NOT try to remove the animal.

2) DO minimize further injury by “disabling” the rest of the trap. Use paper towel or similar to cover the remaining exposed sticky parts.

Do NOT use oil on the animal or trap. It can destroy feathers or fur rendering the animal hypothermic.

3) DO put the animal and trap into a cardboard box and close the lid.

4) Bring the bird ASAP.

If it is a bat, use leather gloves.

Bird v. Window

A bird is attacking my window!

If a bird consistently attacks your window, it’s almost certain he mistakes his reflection and an "intruder".

Cover the part of the window being attacked. Cover the OUTSIDE of the window. If you put the paper on the inside, the reflection will remain.

Call us for more permanent solutions (267) 416-9453.

Baby Bird

I found a baby bird

-IMPORTANT-
This is the time baby birds are at highest risk of "KIDNAPPING" by humans who assume the bird is orphaned. If the bird is not obviously injured, leave it alone. It is crucial to keep kids and pets away to allow the baby bird to develop naturally.

STOP AND OBSERVE

NESTLINGS: A nestling is a naked (or very few-feathered) baby bird, that is fuzzy, and cannot stand or hop.

Nestlings are comparable to human newborns and should be in the nest with their parents. If you find a nestling out of the nest, uninjured, gently return it to the nest when possible. You can always call us for guidance (267) 416-9453. Parents will NOT reject babies due to human contact! If you cannot find the nest, bring the nestling to us immediately.

FLEDGLINGS: Fledglings have all their feathers, but still appear fuzzy and "babyish". They stand, hop, and jump from the nest prior to independent flight. They learn to fly from the ground up, not from the nest down.

Even if unseen, the parents return every few minutes to feed the fledgling. So, don’t interfere with fledglings.

If a fledgling is in a dangerous place - for instance, where he might get stepped on, he can be gently picked up and placed under a nearby bush. Only move it a short distance because his parents will return shortly for the next feeding and must be able to locate it.

IMPORTANT: Never feed a baby bird. Birds have a hole in their tongue that goes right to their lungs. The wrong type of food can quickly kill a baby bird.

Nestling on left. Fledgling on right.

Baby Eastern Cottontail Rabbits

Unless there is a clearly visible injury, if you find a nest of bunnies, leave them alone. Mom WILL be back.

After she gives birth, the mother covers the babies in dried grass and lots of her own grey brown fur. The “nest” looks like a simple, shallow depression on the ground. She quietly returns at dawn and dusk to nurse. She leaves them alone most of the time because, like mother deer, the mother rabbit’s size and odor attract predators.

After 3-5 weeks, the baby rabbits leave the nest and start to explore. When they are about the size of an adult fist, or 2/3 the length of a dollar bill, they are old enough to be independent of their mother.

DO NOT FEED BABY BUNNIES. They require a highly specialized diet, giving them anything else will harm them. Feeding bunnies is complex; food can easily enter their lungs, killing them.

Safe Capture and Transport

1) HUMAN SAFETY COMES FIRST.  It is never advisable to put yourself in danger or do something with which you are not comfortable.

2) CALL US FOR INSTRUCTIONS. Every situation is a little different. And, not every animal who seems to be hurt, actually is. We will be more than happy to talk you through any situation with a wild animal. Sometimes, after speaking to us on the phone, we will request a photo to give us more information. If it is after hours, we provide a tool on our website to help you know what to do in a wildlife emergency situation. Below are the basic rules for capturing a wild animal in need of help

• Unless instructed by us, do NOT feed the animal, force it to drink water, or put water in the box. Most patients need be incubated and medically re-hydrated before feeding.

• If you are able, place the animal in a closed box, and resist the urge to 'peek'. Dark and quiet conditions help animals to stay calm. Stress from a potential predator (you), can cause the animal's 'flight or fight" system to work overtime, causing serious illness or death.

BOX OVER METHOD

If the animal is possibly dangerous, like a hawk, owl, fox, raccoon, fox etc., the best method is usually the “box over" method. Wear gloves, and never touch a bat, skunk, raccoon, woodchuck (groundhog) or coyote with bare hands - rabies is a real concern. Any animal is a candidate for the box over method. Even a squirrel who is seriously injured can inflict a dangerous bite. So when in doubt, use this method for ANY animal, even a small bird. Here are the instructions:

1) Find a suitable sized box or container. Poke a few air holes in it.

2.) Wearing gloves, approach calmly and place the box over the animal.

3.) Slide a piece of board, cardboard, or any other stiff material under the box (like you are catching a spider in a glass with a playing card.)

4.) Duct tape the whole thing up

5.) Bring to a rehabilitator right away. Keep quiet and calm. Don't play the radio in the car.

This article does not account for all the possible scenarios you might face with an injured animal. Great blue herons, for example, absolutely require eye protection before approaching. Their spear-like beaks are made for plucking shiny objects, like eyeballs (and fish). Snapping turtles can reach almost all the way to the back of their shell and relieve you of a finger. Some hurt animals can only be caught with a live humane trap.  So it is always best to call us if unsure.

Squirrels in the Attic

I have squirrels in my attic

OR RACCOONS IN YOUR EAVES, OR SOFFIT…

Never trap and relocate an animal. It’s often illegal. In unfamiliar territory, the animal may be attacked if it "invaded" another's turf, it could starve to death without a known food source, and you could unwittingly separate a mother from her dependent babies.

Encourage the animal(s) to pack up willingly to a place of her choosing.

Ideas for a DIY eviction:

The attic is hospitable because it's dark, quiet, and smells acceptable. Change it up to encourage voluntary eviction.  First, use a bright light. A strobe light is even better. Here is one called "The evictor" that has great reviews. Second, use a radio to play something loud and obnoxious. Finally, use ammonia or vinegar soaked rags, placed in coffee cans with drilled holes, around the area to make the smell noxious. Once you’ve confirmed all inhabitants are gone, PATCH UP THE ENTRANCE. Hardware cloth is a good choice, since animals cannot chew through it. Please call us for further advice. 

Turtle X-ing

A turtle is crossing the road, and he’s going to get hit!

OR, I FOUND AN INJURED TURTLE

If you’ve found a turtle with an obvious injury, call us (267)-416-9453 to determine the next course of action.

Healthy turtle crossing the road:

1) Directions: Turtles are very territorial; WHEN HELPING A TURTLE CROSS THE ROAD, MOVE IT IN THE SAME DIRECTION IT WAS HEADING. If you do not, it will turn around across the road again.

2) Handling a turtle: Grip smaller turtles with BOTH hands on each side of its shell between the front and back legs.

NEVER relocate a turtle to a new “better” location. Turtles, especially the Eastern Box turtle, have very strong homing instincts and remain in that small habitat for their entire (long) lives. Their “home range fidelity” will ensure that an attempted relocation will place them again in harm’s way, leading to death.

Snapping turtles are able to reach around and bite and should be handled very cautiously. With a little ingenuity you can move a larger snapping turtle by grasping it from the back portion of its shell and carefully moving it onto a piece of cardboard or a mat from your car. This way you can more easily and safely “pull” the turtle to the other side of the road without harming it.

Healthy turtle on my property:

Leave it be. Turtles, especially the Eastern Box turtle, have a very strong homing instinct and keep close to home for their entire (long) lives. NEVER relocate a turtle to a new “better” location. Their “home range fidelity” will ensure they will constantly try to get back to the place they know and they will likely die of starvation if removed.

Again, when in doubt, you can always call to get our expert advice (267-416-9453).

Groundhog and Skunk Squatters

I have groundhogs/skunks living under my deck!

Groundhogs (or skunks) are living under my deck!

If Groundhogs (woodchucks) are living under your deck or shed, one option is to do nothing. They won’t do any real damage, and you might be providing a home for a mother animal to raise her young.

Please call us for expert advice before taking any action (267) 416-9453. We oppose the removal of healthy wild animals from their environment and counsel co-existence - it is their world too. If necessary, we can provide humane, practical, do-it-yourself solutions to deter animals from your garden, shed, trash or attic if they are causing a problem.

Please do not trap and relocate an animal. It is usually illegal, but more than that, dropping an animal in a “nice park” usually means a slow, agonizing death. It will likely confront other animals defending their territories and ultimately starve when removed from its specific food supply. Additionally, you could separate a mother from her babies, who will die without her nurturing care.

So, it’s best to “ask” them to leave. So, place a bright light, a radio (set to something obnoxious) and ammonia or vinegar soaked rags around the area. Once the animals are gone, you can block off the area, but make sure there are no babies left underneath.

Peacocks

Peacocks are not wildlife but pets. So, if you find one, the owner likely lost or inappropriately relinquished it. Free resources for aid with peacocks are few. However, you may be able to find help through your local SPCA or animal control.

Living With Our Wild Neighbors

As a part of our jobs at the Philadelphia Metro Wildlife Center we answer many phone calls each day about a variety of wildlife issues. Often it is because a person has found an injured or orphaned animal and they want to know the next steps, but sometimes the caller is simply concerned about an animal’s presence in their home, yard, or neighborhood.

They ask things like:

• “This animal is in my neighborhood–shouldn’t it be in the woods?”

• “This animal is out during the day/ during winter, shouldn’t it be out at night/hibernating? Is there something wrong with it?”

• “There’s an animal in my yard, will it eat my pet, harm my child, spread rabies?”

• “Can I remove this animal and release it somewhere else, can you do it for me?”

All of these are valid questions, especially if you aren’t familiar with the natural behaviors of some of our wild neighbors! Our mission is not only to rehabilitate, but to help educate as well. Here are a few short posts addressing these most common questions and concerns from the public!

PART ONE:

Why do we see certain animals in our neighborhood?

Of course there are some species that we expect to see around our homes even if we live in densely populated areas– songbirds and squirrels are typically common and welcomed in most places.

But what about some of the other species such as foxes, raccoons, and opossums? Philly Metro Wildlife gets A LOT of calls about these species in particular. Is it normal for these species to be in our neighborhoods? What will happen if they are?

Unfortunately, the creation of our neighborhoods destroys wildlife habitats, and foxes, raccoons, and opossums have become very skilled at meeting their needs in developed areas. They are here because they are able to find their food, water, shelter, and space that they need to survive and thrive. So, it is NOT unusual for them to be sharing our neighborhoods with us. They also play a vital role in the urban/suburban ecosystem by keeping the populations of other species (rodents, insects, and the like) in check.

Most importantly, they will naturally avoid humans. Most of the time you see these animals, they are probably moving about with intention– going from one place to another, finding food, or caring for young. If you don’t bother them, they most likely won’t bother you., and they really just want to be left alone.

That said, you may or may not want to attract these species to your yard, and that’s fine. There are precautions you can take to discourage wildlife from taking up residence if that’s your concern:

• Keep your trash inside or in a garage until pick-up day, tightly secure lids, and avoid leaving bagged trash outside.

• Feed all pets inside. If you must feed pets outside, do so at a set time daily and immediately remove the food and clean up all mess, do not leave food out overnight. Tightly secure any food stored outside.

• Keep the area under bird feeders clean and use feeders that collect fallen seed. Consider not filling feeders April through November when other food is plentiful so as not to attract unwanted animals, and bring feeders in at nighttime.

PART TWO:

Now that we know that it is normal to see wildlife such as foxes, raccoons, and opossums in our neighborhoods, what do we do when we see them during the day?

Foxes, raccoons, and opossums are considered nocturnal and will mostly be active at night. Being mostly active at night does not mean that you will never see them during the day, and seeing such an animal when the sun is out does not mean that there is something wrong with that animal.

These species will sometimes move about during the day to eat or drink or reclocate. This is especially true during “baby season” when parents are working hard to meet the caloric needs for themselves and their young. We often tell people in the springtime that it’s “BABIES, NOT RABIES” that is the cause for the increased daytime activity of these typically nighttime friends!

When you see these mostly nocturnal animals out during the day, take a moment to observe and enjoy them from a distance! Again, they want to be left alone, so observe from afar and never try to corner an animal–they will quickly be on their way.

Of course, there will be cases where an animal could be exhibiting unnatural behaviors such as spinning in circles or appearing overly agitated. Keep your distance and call us (267) 416-9453 (or your local wildlife agency) for specific advice!

During the winter months some animals hibernate (like woodchucks), others significantly reduce their activity but still roam around (raccoons), and some remain completely active (foxes and opossums). Occasionally, animals who should be hibernating (such as bats) are found out during a warmer spell during winter, and sometimes the energy that this requires can put that animal at risk, so if you find an animal that you are concerned about you are always welcome to call us for specific advice!

PART THREE:

So now we know that it is normal to see a variety of wildlife around our urban and suburban neighborhoods, and that these animals typically pose little to no threat to us if we leave them alone. Still, people often call to ask if the presence of these animals is harmful to their pets or children, and if there is an increased risk of disease (such as rabies).

As we’ve stated in the previous parts to this series, it’s important to leave animals alone, especially if they are with their young, and to teach our children to do the same.

Most of the time, predators will not take cats or small dogs if there is other food available. However, keeping pets indoors or on leash can ensure that you cat or dog will not happen upon a wild animal (this protects the wildlife AND your pet!).

Other animals that are housed outside, such as rabbits or chickens, should have proper housing that keeps the predators from entering from above, below, and from all places in between.

Wild animals do carry diseases that can be passed on to pets and humans. It’s important to keep your pet’s vaccinations up-to-date and to avoid handling wild animals (even injured and orphaned ones) without the proper protection.

In Pennsylvania we have six rabies vector species: raccoons, groundhogs, foxes, skunks, coyotes, and bats, and these animals should never be handled with bare hands (even the babies!). Avoiding contact is the way to protect yourself and your pets.

Diseases occur more in areas where the population of that species is unnaturally dense, which is another reason that we discourage feeding wild animals (intentionally, or unintentionally), so that populations are kept in a more natural balance.

PART FOUR:

Many animals have adapted so well to living around humans that they sometimes like to...move in! It’s not uncommon for people to find a family of opossums under their porch, or squirrels, bats, or raccoons taking up residence in their attic.

We get calls nearly every day about “nuisance animals”– meaning that they are not orphaned, sick, or injured, but are an inconvenience. Animals living in our attics and such can pose a health threat when there is build-up of feces or if an animal dies in a hard-to-reach spot. They can also chew through insulation and wiring, which can be a costly problem!

Wildlife rehabilitators do not remove nuisance animals, and animal control agencies will often only help remove an animal if it is in a common living space (like your living room or bedroom).

There are guidelines that you can follow to humanely exclude animals from your home with success. You can always call us and we are happy to give advice! Each situation is different and we can help you know when and how to remove an animal so that it doesn’t return to your home, and so that the animal (or family of animals) can still survive.

Trapping and relocating an animal can sometimes be a death sentence for that animal, and can even be illegal in some areas so please check your local municipal laws regarding this.

At the Philadelphia Metro Wildlife Center, we are committed to helping people protect their own interests, as well as the interests of the wildlife that share our space. We hope that the more people know about the wildlife that share our space and support the ecosystem, the greater the chance that we can all peacefully coexist with our “wild neighbors”.

There are some great resources for humane exclusion techniques, and the Humane Society of the United States is a great place to start!

https://www.humanesociety.org/resource/wildlife-management-solutions